Sunday, March 23, 2008

Virtual Moving

I've been thinking about this for a while, and I really like the features and style of the blogs I see in Wordpress. So, I'm moving Al otro lado to http://deebswriting.wordpress.com/.

Please update you links and whatnot.

See you there,

deeb

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Tapalpa

This past week we skipped town with the rest of Guadalajara and headed out into the countryside. More specifically, we spent most of Semana Santa in Tapalpa, Jalisco. During Semana Santa, most of the big cities in Mexico empty and the beaches are packed with all the people from Guadalajara and Mexico City.

Tapalpa is about an hour and a half from Guadalajara and up into the mountains. Tapalpa is known as a place with really good cheese and very large rocks. There are quite a lot of cabins for rent and most people seem to stay outside the town and in cabins in the pine forests. We stayed at the cabin of my friend’s aunt.

The first day we arrived we unpacked the car and then headed into town. By chance we stopped in front of a house with a sign proclaiming “Productos Lacteos”. We entered off the street into the sitting room of the house. The smell of boiling guavas filled the room, we walked through the sitting room, filled with family photos into a small room with a refrigerator and stove opening onto the courtyard. The room was filled with preserves and rompope, and the guavas boiling on the stove. The owner, Carmelita, came through the courtyard to give us the big sell. She showed us the various kinds of cheese she had – queso fresco, panela, aged panela, aged queso fresco. Carmelita told us that she aged the cheeses for more than a month before they were ready to sell.

We were given taste tests of the cheeses and samples of the different flavors of rompope; we smelled the guavas and opened our wallets. We bought fresh and aged cheeses, two different flavors of rompope and peach preserves. I felt like I was operating with great restraint.

After the shopping spree, we wandered around the center of town and checked out the market and the church. We sampled the local specialties, which included tamales de acelga (or chard tamales) covered in cream and queso fresco. Across the street from the woman selling the tamales, there was a family selling churros. So we had desert, too!

I eyed the pots for boiling beans in the market and bought a new wooden spatula. We bought honey from a man loaded down with honeycomb and surrounded by bees. My friend laughed at the people asking the man if the honey was “all natural”.

We relaxed at the cabin and ate good food and played dominos while keeping warm by the fire. On our last day, we returned and left town loaded town with more cheese.

We also went to visit the big rocks, or Piedrotas, which were impressive to some people, but I was more impressed by Carmelita’s. We took her card which reads:
Productos Lacteos
Quesos, Panelas, Pegostes, Conservas, Rompopes, Ponches y Repostería
Carmelita’s Toscano
Hidalgo no. 248, Tel. 43 200 57, Tapalpa, Jalisco.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Life plans

I have had quite a few of those “what am I doing with my life” moments since arriving here. Most of them are answered with certainty and a smile; however, the job front seems to get more and more uncertain.

A few weekends ago, Adolfo, a friend and I had a long discussion about this. What my friend called a therapy session with a few bottles of wine. I confessed that I’m a little bit lost.

I originally got into this line of work because I wanted to help create better citizens of the United States; citizens who were worldlier and culturally competent. Young people who would return from their experience and be inspired to continue learning languages, or learn more about migrants, the incarcerated, or poor in their own country and do something to make the situation better.

I knew exactly why I was doing my job.

I am less sure of what I am currently doing.

They had several suggestions but they boiled down to one – they think I should teach. I was always sure I didn’t want to teach. Now I’m less sure of that.

In fact, I’m a lot less sure about most everything related to jobs. One of the things I told my friend was that in the States, I knew what the options were and where. I knew what the paths were to reach the goals I had. Now, I don’t know what all the options are, or where they are, or even how to get to them and I seem to have lost track of my professional goals.

Some people think I should teach, other people mention writing a book. I am viewing both these options with a romanticism that I just don’t think is very realistic.

My current job is ok and I am fine for the moment, but I can’t see my future there and it doesn’t help that everyone has a Plan B in case of getting fired. I feel like I should be getting my Plan B together.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Ok, I give up

For the last time, I tried once again to win the battle with fake meat. I lost. I have some sort of reaction to fake meat products that leads to terrible stomachaches and intestinal distress. I don’t get it.

I purposely tried the fake meat this time while Adolfo was out of town. Also, because it is hard to just buy one small serving, I knew there was a chance I would need to throw the rest of the package out, and for some reason that was something I didn’t want Adolfo to be around for.

My history with fake meat began in grad school. I was starving and wanted ready to eat food that wasn’t horrible for my health. I was surviving on quesadillas with the occasional bagged spinach leaf or spoonful of refried beans out of a can and frozen vegetarian lasagna. I needed another option.

I thought that a little Boca/Morningstar burger or nugget would provide some much needed variety. And it did. Hours after eating any of these products I would develop horrible stomachaches.

I don’t know why. I have no other food allergies, not even the family food allergy. And, apparently the rest of my family is able to eat fake meat products with abandon. I eat soy products regularly (tofu, soy sauce, the occasional edamame). I don’t generally have a sensitive stomach. I eat chile and drink tequila (both in moderation). I even eat street food and since moving here I’ve had hotdogs off the street, with chile! (Now, that really should have given me a stomachache.)

So for some reason, with all that experience, I decided to give it one more shot. They sell a lot of fake meat products here. I don’t believe they are exceptionally healthy (they seem to have a lot of fat), but I just want another option sometimes. Also, I convinced myself that maybe fake meat is different here. Well, I was wrong.

Pain and suffering ensued. And, I think I’m off the fake meat wagon for good.

What is it that fake meat has that is not found in anything else I’m eating?

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Alone

Adolfo left for Mexico City yesterday and now I’m home alone for the next few days. I’ve been reading about people (in emails and blogs) who are housebound due to the winter storms hitting the Mid-west, and for some reason am feeling a little jealous. So, I think today I’m going to pretend to be housebound. There are a lot of things to do out in the city today, and I don’t feel like doing any of them.

Friends of mine are on movie marathons right now because the International Film Festival is happening right now. Last night I went through the schedule and tried to make a plan. But, honestly, although the movies look really good, I can’t get worked up enough to try to find these movie theaters and get there by myself.

I really don’t even feel like going grocery shopping. And, I know perfectly well where the grocery store is. On second thought, I have to go grocery shopping today; I don’t really think I have a choice about this.

I think part of my resistance to getting out of the house has to do with some anxiety I’m feeling about work right now. Among other things, I have one more week before the spring vacations and there are about a thousand things that need to be accomplished before we shut down.

I am excited about the upcoming vacations. I get a ridiculous amount of vacation time with this job. However, contrary to any other job I’ve had in my life, vacations are non-negotiable and non-movable. And, the entire university closes. You will take vacations when they tell you!

With the structure of our currently employment, I will almost never have the same vacation time as Adolfo. Except on the occasion of Semana Santa, which practically every single Mexican has off. Adolfo has Semana Santa and then goes back to work. I, however, have Semana Santa, Semana Pasqua AND the following Monday. So, I’ll be returning to work for the 1st of April.

But, until the end of the day on Friday, I’m panicked about how much needs to be accomplished before the lights go out.

So, today I think I will try to focus on vacations instead of panicking about work. We are going to stay in a cabin of an aunt of a friend in a little town called Tapalpa. So, I think today I’m going to plan a menu and maybe pick out some books.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Container Garden

I was able to leave work about a half hour early on Friday and made it to the Nursery before it closed. Finally, I was able to pick up a couple pots and a bougainvillea. I planted one pot with spinach seeds and have another for when my tomato seedling out grows it's 1 c. yogurt container.

Also, this week one of the rosemary cuttings started to perk up and I think it has sprouted some roots. The other cutting still looks really stressed and I'm not sure it's going to make it.

The mint, of course, looks great and is making an attempt to take over the terrace from it's rather small pot. The oregano is struggling along and I'm not sure what to do to make it happy. I've thought about trying to divide it or putting it in a bigger pot, but it just looks really constricted although I think it should have enough space (same sized pot as the mint).

Spring has sprung, here in Guadalajara. The trees are blooming and the people are sneezing.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Teaching culture

I have a friend who is very interested in cinema and has been lending us various documentaries and other movies to watch. Recently, we were discussing learning about culture and cultural references through movies and this weekend she lent us a Pedro Infante and Jorge Negrete movie, to teach me about Mexican culture. We've already had long conversations about Cantinflas.

So, now I'm making a list of movies that I think teach or explain US culture or contain cultural references. I think they need to be from before the 90s, since she's seen a lot of movies since that time, also she's already seen the Muppet Movie, the Wizard of Oz and Breakfast at Tiffany's (which she didn't like).

So here's my short list so far:

To Kill a Mockinbird
The Cradle will Rock
Some Like it Hot
Roman Holiday
Bull Durham
Pretty in Pink or 16 Candles
Blazing Saddles
Say Anything
American Graffiti
Once Upon a Time in the West

What do you think? Any glaring omissions?

I think I am not including the War genre, but I don't much like it - or I could recommend that she watch Apocalypse Now and not tell me about it.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Lunchroom questions

On Friday, I was heating up my lunch and a co-worker, who I don't know very well, asked me, "So what do people from the US eat?"

I thought, uh oh, I'm not going to give her an answer she will like, and said, "Do you mean, what am I having for lunch?"

She said yes and so I responded, "Well today I'm having Tortilla Soup."

Probably not what people from the US are usually eating. I think she was disappointed that I was eating Mexican food, instead of something more exotic and interesting.

Nopalitos

Adolfo’s brother passed us his recipe for Nopalitos and I made them for lunch today. I have eaten this recipe before and I liked it quite a bit. However, people are always cautioning about cooking nopales, which are cactus pads from a certain kind of prickly pear cactus, nopalitos are literally “little nopales” – basically they are cut up. The caution is generally because nopales are famous for their babas, or drool. If not properly cooked they ooze a goo similar to that of okra. And, it is not at all appealing when your salad looks like it’s covered in drool.

Last week, when I went to the market, I noticed for the first time that they had nopales. The market, and to a lesser extent the supermarket, is very seasonal. I may not know the particular seasons for some things, but at the market it is stark – either it’s there, it’s not there, or it’s there and looks really bad (which is the case right now with the guavas, they are out of season and look horrible). So the nopales have appeared, and they look good, so it must be nopal season.

In case you are able to get nopales where you are, I translated the recipe below. Remember, it’s a salad, so measurements are difficult to come by and it’s up to your taste.

Nopalitos Salad


Wash the nopales and look them over carefully for needles. Cut into large dice. Add to salted water, which is boiling with a piece of an onion. Boil for 20 minutes. Drain and remove onion pieces.

Mix in a medium sized bowl: finely diced onion, finely diced chile serrano, chopped tomato and cilantro. Add the drained nopalitos and add to your taste: salt, olive oil and vinegar or lime juice. You may also add diced avocado. Finally on top sprinkle queso fresco, or other similar cheese.

You can refrigerate the salad before serving, because it is much better cold.

I would say that refrigeration is not an option, you must at least serve the salad at room temperature, so a quick refrigeration helps you get there faster. Of course, you can add the tomato, cheese and avocado right before serving. I used about 1 ½ - 2 cups of nopales, the onion was red for color and I used probably 2 T., one whole avocado, which I also believe is not optional, and a roma tomato. I also used probably 1 T. of lime juice and I seeded the chile.

It was quite successful and not at all drooly.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Happy Valentine’s Day or The Secret Chinese Menu Strikes Again!

So, first of all, and since I’m thinking of Louise and she posted about Valentine’s Day in Japan, I’m sort of surprised by the non-issue that is Valentine’s Day here. I work in an office FULL of women and I expected a little bit more of an event. There was no asking about plans for the night, no little candies passed around, nobody appeared to receive flowers. I was at least expecting people to ask me if I was going out to dinner. Nothing.

The streets, however, are a different world altogether. I saw lots and lots of people with balloons. Lots and lots of balloons, in fact, while I regularly pass people selling flowers in the street, I usually don’t see people selling balloons. Many more balloons than flowers. Balloons on sticks, balloons on string, I didn’t get a balloon.

Anyway, we did go out to dinner tonight. We walked over to the neighborhood Chinese restaurant, which is now the second time we’ve been and I’m starting to really like this place. It is still expensive and we can’t go there all the time, but ACTUAL Chinese people eat there.

Unfortunately, the actual Chinese people didn’t arrive until we were paying the bill, so I was not able to point to their table and ask the waiter to bring me whatever they were eating. I was also really missing Louise, I already know that the restaurant is Cantonese, and Louise could tell them to bring us real Chinese food and not goopy/saucy stuff. (Although, we quite liked our goopy/saucy stuff, as it had really good flavor and the vegetables are still crunchy.)

But, after rudely trying to listen in on the conversation behind us – in Cantonese – which was wildly unsuccessful in helping us learn what was on the Secret Chinese menu, we just went ahead and asked the waitress what the folks behind us had just ordered. I was reminded of Calvin Trillin in “The Tummy Trillogy” where he continually complains about his lack of ability to speak Chinese and how it is preventing him from a really good meal.

So, the folks behind us ordered stir-fried baby chard with mushrooms, the first of the season, the waitress explained. Making it that much worse. She did tell us that the next time we come in, ask for her and ask what the kitchen is preparing that is not on the menu. I think, with that, we just might be gaining access to the secret Chinese menu.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

And, Merry Christmas to you, too!

I think some of you thought I was joking when I said you would get your Christmas cards for Groundhog's Day. I've been receiving emails of shock and surprise for the last few weeks and it is really amusing me. This week we received our first Christmas card (thanks Matt, Stephanie & Isaac!) and it is now proudly displayed on our sagging bookshelves.

I think next year I'm just going to go ahead and wish you all a Merry Christmas and Happy Groundhog's Day!

And, by the way, Randall - You don't need an invitation to come visit us, we will be very happy to see you anytime you like!

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

We need a new plan

So, today, February 6th, my mail-in ballot arrived for the primary. Since California voted yesterday with the other Super Tuesday primaries, I did not vote.
Hrmph.

I feel frustrated about this and worried that I won’t get the ballot in November either. I always vote. This is the first time I don’t and, for the first time in my life, it is actually very interesting vote in this primary.

My voter registration for my overseas ballot was mailed right after new years (from California, thanks to Adolfo’s brother). But, somehow I thought I had done something wrong, or I was supposed to not just register as an overseas voter, but also request my ballot. But, apparently they got it and understood that they needed to send me a ballot, slooooowly.

I have heard rumors of ex-pats being able to get their ballots by email or fax, so I’m going to have to look into that method – I think it depends on your voting state.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Question

How can you tell if a pineapple is ripe? I can't seem to figure it out.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Drive through

There is an intersection that we pass regularly in our driving around town that takes us from our neighborhood to a major avenue, which traverses the city. At any time of the day or night you can buy things from your car at this intersection. I have noticed that the products tend to change depending on the time of day.

In the mornings and during the daytime, you can get your windshield washed; buy a phone card or a newspaper. I have purchased both newspapers and phone cards here. The windshield washers are a family, I think, and at least two of them are deaf. Also, there is an old woman asking for money is at this intersection during the day. I gave her a couple oranges once and she asked me where I was going, I told her I was going to the center of town and she told me she would bless the roads I would take. One time, I was asked if I wanted to buy a puppy. They were very small. I declined.

In the evening you can buy roses and calla lilies, or perhaps a bouquet. But, you can’t get your windshield washed and there are no more newspapers.

Very late in the night or early morning, depending on when you are coming home, the transvestite prostitutes come out. No more roses for sale.

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Experiments

This is what Adolfo calls it when I try out new foods on him. I have a four day weekend and am considering my options. One of the options in sushi. I haven't made sushi at home before and think now would be a good time. There is a Japanese grocery store here and I think they sell all the things I will need for homemade sushi. We'll see how it goes.

I'm also considering several bread recipes and will need to make more cookies.

I made Chocolate Crackles last weekend for the first time in a very, very long time, and they are all gone now. Granted, Adolfo has been having meetings in the house with two friends, so it's not that we wolfed down the whole batch. I may just make these cookies again.

I think we just cleaned out the last of the spaghetti sauce from the freezer, so I will need to make more soon.

Tomorrow, I am planning to go with a friend to find a grocery store that sells all imported items and is the only place I know that sells REAL maple syrup. Since the only maple syrup we have was a gift from a coworker (who bought it at the store we are going to tomorrow), I've never been there. We'll see what fun things we find.

I also want to go out to eat with some friends at a pizza place that we hear is owned by actual Italians, and see about 3 movies, and finally find the elusive pupusa restaurant we've been talking about for months.

There is a lot to accomplish.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Super

I’m in a struggle with my local Gigante Supermarket. I want them to actually stock the things that I buy regularly. I’m not asking them to order things that they don’t usually stock (like tofu). I’m asking them to keep bread and milk on the shelves.

Granted, they have bread and milk, but I’m not buying Pan Bimbo and Lala milk. I want them to keep the only acceptable sandwich bread (it crumbles when you bite it) and the reduced fat organic milk on the shelves. Obviously people are buying these items, as they frequently run out.

So now, I’m participating in a battle of wills. Every time I go to the supermarket I ask for the manager who makes the orders and I ask her to, once again, order these items. She responds that on Monday (I’m there on the weekends) she will call the distributor. And, I respond by asking her to double the order of milk. The milk comes in a Tetra Pak box and is shelf stable. So, there is no risk of her order spoiling, and in fact she would sell more. She responds that she will call the distributor on Monday, and informs me that they are under new management. (There is no promise of doubling the order.)

Sadly, this is the only supermarket where I have seen this kind of organic milk. The other kind comes in a super fancy, costly plastic bottle and is significantly more expensive.

These are not the only things that come and go at the super. I was, for a time, able to get good Dijon mustard, but, not anymore. I didn’t complain to the manager about this, as I would rather put my efforts toward focusing her on the milk.

I made bread this weekend in order to survive the bread shortage. At least I can make bread.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Much better

I'm practically completely recovered. I now have a "little cough" instead of what was earlier this week "is that part of my lungs?" We went to Adolfo's family doctor on Tuesday morning, in order to make sure I wasn't developing bronchitis - and I am not. He asked me many of the same questions and some questions I was not expecting - "Do people smoke in your office?" (The answer, thankfully, is no.) He also did not ask some questions, like if I had an allergy. Interesting.

All in all a very good experience, we were the first people to have an appointment at 9am and met the doctor in front of the building. We walked in and sat down with him and talked for about 30 minutes, no secretary, no forms, no waiting in the little room with nothing to read. He recommended 3 kinds of pills (not antibiotics) and we went to the pharmacy and bought them (no prescription). The pills are GREAT! My cough slowed down considerably and the next day I went back to work.

Friday, January 18, 2008

sick

I've missed two days of work this week. I'm now to the point where if I just don't move, I won't cough. hmm... at some point I'm going to have to get up off the sofa.

I tend to get really annoyed when I'm sick, especially if I'm just sick enough that I can't concentrate on a book. So here I am, annoyed and looking at all the projects that I'm not working on and the new books I have that I'm not reading.

I did get the King Arthur Flour catalog yesterday from my mother and it appeared to be at the right reading and comprehension level for me. So I went window shopping through the catalog for a while and kept myself entertained.

Being sick in another country/culture is also an interesting event. Much of the unsolicited advice is similar to unsolicited advice I would get in the States - put on a sweater, where is your scarf?, drink more tea, "Mija put socks!" But I think that last one is just specific to me.

However, there are two things that I notice here. One is an extra-sensitivity to "cold air". Especially, that you should not breath it. How, you ask, should you breath if the air is in fact chilly? You should wear a surgical mask.

I'm not sure how the surgical mask heats up the air, or prevents the cold air from getting into your lungs. It's a mystery to me, but the people here swear by it.

The other difference I notice has to do with medicines. Unlike in the states, where it is extra difficult and expensive to get medicine, here is is extra easy and not anywhere near as expensive. And, since you can walk into a pharmacy and ask for many kinds of drugs, people tend to have a little bit of information about what these drugs do (more so that what I found to be true in the States).

So when you get sick, people will begin rattling off the names of all kinds of drugs that you should take. I have no idea what they are or what they are for and I know the people recommending them to me are neither physicians nor pharmacists. But, they are well meaning, none the less.

So, what's a sick person to do? Well, I let Adolfo be the filter on the drug list. The one time I was very sick (with a cold), he (and his mother) did the research (called all the aunts) and decided what I needed. I took whatever it was, and started to feel much better. But that's just my experience.

And, I'm not wearing the surgical mask no matter how cold the air is.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Ideas

Someone needs to write a Roadfood for Mexico. Where are Jane & Michael Stern when you need them? I’m sure these little pueblos we passed on the road have a little diner-like restaurant with somebody’s grandmother cooking a fantastic pozole. But, how am I supposed to know?

Timeline

I have now spent more time living in Mexico than in Ecuador. And, not surprisingly, things are going much better here than the one semester spent in Quito. Also, the stakes are higher this time and I’m a different person than I was 10 years ago.

Saturday, January 12, 2008

100 pesos

The last weekend before work began again (January 5th & 6th), Adolfo and his sister and I spent a weekend in Morelia. Morelia is in the state of Michoacan and is about 3 hours southeast of Guadalajara. It is a nice little colonial city and we walked around for hours checking out the interesting houses, the aqueduct, the cathedral, etc. (Adolfo already updated the photos.)

We had received some information about places to eat, and the best of them was the Inmaculada. First of all, the name is great. Who wouldn’t want to eat in the immaculate restaurant? However, as you might expect is more related to religion than the cleanliness of the place. The restaurant is located in the basement of a church.

The first thing we did was change 100 pesos (approximately $10 US dollars) into laminated chips of different denominations in order to pay for the food in the different stalls. The guy who took our money assured us that we could come back and change our leftover chips back into pesos. Also, we thought that we would start small and then go back and change more pesos if we liked.

Then we hatched a plan: Adolfo headed off to get some corundas (a local kind of tamale), his sister spotted the pozole, I got a combination of two enchiladas covered in potatoes and carrots, one fried potato taco and one fried meat taco and I got two drinks for us to share. Everything was fantastic, but we only spent about 40 pesos!

So, then we had a new agenda – we were going to try to spend all the money!

We spotted the stand for sopes and we sent Adolfo to get us sopes to share. We had 2 sopes each and were still left with a lot of change.

Then we had to take a break and recover for a moment. La Inmaculada was packed with large families and everyone looked local. We had ventured away from the central plaza and a significant amount of tourists, and now we were eating in a local hotspot, which was obviously being maintained and supported by the local lower-middle class population. None of us are really sure of how the economics of the place function. We don't know if the people working at the stalls are the church members, how much of a cut the church gets, or why they were playing Frank Sinatra music! (Oh, I guess the last bit doesn't have to do with economics. Still, we were puzzled.)

While taking the break Adolfo spotted some quesadillas made with fresh tortillas and went to check them out. Meanwhile, I spotted a woman patting out blue corn tortillas! It was a very exciting find. I decided I could eat one blue corn quesadilla. And, Adolfo’s sister took the last of the chips and bought some buñuelos for desert.

We were able to spend all the money, but we couldn’t manage to finish the buñuelos.

It was a very good thing that we were a 45-minute walk from the center, and our hotel. We definitely needed it.

Friday, January 4, 2008

Escrabble

Due to family (house) scrabble rules, I beat Adolfo's family at scrabble, in Spanish.

Also, I spelled "laterales" using a "la" already in existence and spent all 7 of my letters!

Still here

Nothing like a few visitors to make the blogging fall to the background. But, the photography is still happening and you can see some of the Christmas cooking for yourself.

Adolfo's brother when back home a few days ago, but his sister is here for another week. We are trying to convince them both to move back as soon as possible.

Part of the convincing has taken the form of food: sopes, enchiladas, posole, quesadillas, cocteles de camarones, tacos, tortas de pavo, chilequiles, sopa de tortilla, tortas ahogadas and dogos (near relatives of the Sonoran dogs).

I don't know about them, but I'm convinced.

Also, we have tried several coffee shops and the local (German?) microbrewery. It's called Der Krug Brauhaus and there's sauerkraut on the menu. Although, we just stuck to the beer and home fries, next time I think we'll sample the menu.

Tonight, for dinner I'm going to try out Rick Bayless's recipe for Pescado a la Veracruzana using fish fillets.